Friday 29 April 2011

THANKS MUM!!!!

Big thanks to Mum Jacqui for keeping the blog going while we've been in China.

You're a superstar Mum!  There's a Chinese trinket in it for your troubles.

Big loves xxxxxx

Honkers: Stop Talking Like a Retard, People Speak English Here.

Good evening from Nathan Road, Hong Kong.

Isn't it amazing how a few kilometers and 99 years of British occupation can completely change a place. We caught the ferry over from Zhuhai this morning, leaving behind China for good this time. It's a bittersweet release full of contradictory feelings which, lets face it, describes our entire time in China. The last few days in Zhuhai were excellent, catching up with Jazzs friends and generally just relaxing and reminiscing.

The first difference we noticed in Honkers was that the taxi had seatbelts. And the driver had a fluent conversation with us about all manner of things. And we didn't for a moment fear for our lives. It was good. He delivered us to the Sheraton Hotel for our 5 star luxury suite. Which turned out to be craptastic. Well not craptastic, but certainly not of the standard that we had expected, particularly after we have stayed in such amazing hotels for a fraction of the price. I'm sure they'll regret disappointing us by the end of our stay.... Just sayin' if you ever come to the Sheraton in Honkers, bring a black light.

So far we've hit the streets pretty hard, enjoying all the little alley ways, and getting pretty well ass raped by the vendors. Haggling is not my strong point. But turns out we have plenty of dosh left so we're happy to part with it. We were hoping to get an ipad, but the 2 hasn't been released here yet so no luck. Everyone we've spoken to here speaks English fluently, but we're so used to no one understanding us, that we're still pointing at the menu going 'I want that one' and speaking in slow monosylables like cave men. I'm pretty sure they think the loony bus has lost a few...  I'm sure we'll get the hang of speaking English good back again soon.

Tomorrow we're going to head to the Peak and then to Mongkok (True dinks there is a place in the world called Mongkok) for the ladies market to do lady things.

Wednesday 27 April 2011

Plastic Venice: Jazz's Old Digs

Good Morning from the Paradise Hill Hotel in Zhuhai! This place at some point in time was 5 star luxuary. Now it's just kind of sad. But the room is larger than some (most) of the units I have lived in. Just don't try getting into the pool without a bathing cap or someone will scream at you in Chinese until you slink away to the kiddies pool and look confused until they leave you alone. Just ask Jazz.

On Easter Sunday we left Shanghai. We traveled for a full 24 hours, by train, bus and ferry and ended up in Macao. Macoa is like the Vegas of Asia. It is wall to wall casinos, bright lights and smells like the sort of regret that comes from not only gambling away your life savings, but the life savings of three generations of your offspring. But dang it was fun!

You may remember that we booked the Royale suite at the Venetian Hotel in Macao. Wow. wow. It is like a city. They give you a map so you can get around. We've decided we will return there one day and live there for a week and see if it's possible not to have to leave for any reason. We're sure it can be done. The room was amazing, everything about it was amazing. A bit of a change from being stuck in a train booth with two strange Chinese men continuously farting throughout the night. We had a little flutter on the pokies - they even had the old ones where you pull the handle. But we lost spectacularly. Dinner was at Mortons Steakhouse. It looked pricey but we thought we'd give it a look see anyway. Our suspiciions were right - It was so pricey they don't even show you the menu. Instead they bring out a massive tray of meat and go through all the cuts with you - demonstrate with the vegies how you can have them cooked, and then introduce you to the live lobster that could be yours for just 400yaun a pound. He had his pinchers tied tight which was a relief because the look in his stalky eyes was one of murderous rage - "You wanta eat meee? Bring it!!!"  We settled on a New York strip steak and Fillet Mingon. It has ruined meat for me forever. sigh. After dinner we went for a gondola ride. Yes the Venitian - with a plastic Venice, has canals with real life gondolas and real life gondalers who sing in Italian for you while you float lazily under the beautiful sky painted on the roof. Whilst it may sound somewhat tacky, it was pretty cool.

We did manage to tear ourselves away from the casino and make it into Macao itself. It has a very clear Porteguese influence and is really quite pretty when you get away from the bright lights of the casinos and the crowded and noisy streets. The square and church front were really lovely - and the egg tarts to die for!  In the morning we decided to try the breakfast buffet. Big mistake. We officially cannot be trusted with a buffet, especially not one that has a 200 metre long buffet of breakfast treats. *Drools*

We managed to haul our fat asses accross the border to Zhuhai. It's the first time I've ever walked accross a border. Pretty cool. Zhuhai is gorgeous. It reminds me a bit of Canberra. The streets are tree lined, the traffic doesn't seem as bad and there is much less pollution. But it does only have a population of 1.3 million compared to Beijings 13 million.

Today we're off to see more Zhuhai.

Sunday 24 April 2011

Good Friday is Good

We had no idea it was Easter. There is absolutely no sign of it happening here. Although there is a little bunny rabbit hopping around the hostel this morning... So Happy Easter everyone, and Happy Birthday Jazz!!

On Friday we went to check out the Xi'an city walls. They are massive and do a 14km loop of the city to keep out, we assume, the shitty Mongolians. Upon entering the South gate we were confronted by dragons doing their dragony dance. One came right up to Jazz and battered his massive eye lashes in front of his face. Jazz was taller then the two Chinese lads in the costume standing on top of one another. Well cute. We then hired a bike to ride around the wall. Notice I said 'a' bike. Yep we went tandem. After 15 minutes of giggling incesently we finally got the hang of it and ended up cycling the entirety of the wall. You get some pretty grand views from up there. After the bikes we decided to try our hand at kite flying. It's a big thing over here and currently there is a kite festival going on on the wall. So we ran around like fools for half an hour trying to get the kite off the ground. Finally when I had it up and going it up and went! The string wasn't attached to the handle so it just flew away. I was having so much fun I nearly cried like a child. So off we went to get another one. The guy selling them yelled at me in Chinese and then tried to give my money back - he was a little startled when we asked for another but took our money happily. We finally got the hang of it - after some help from the locals -  and flew it for quite a while - until I crashed it into one of the buildings (relics) and it got caught there. Yes we defiled a relic. And then ran.

In the afternoon we went for a spa. As in 100 minutes of massage and pampering Chinese style. Which means it cost $14AUD and hurt as much as it was awesome. To continue the theme we went and got a hair wash. Jazz has been filling my head with the wonders that is a Chinese hair wash but till yet we hadn't found anywhere that did them and I was starting to get dubious - It wasn't as much a hair wash as a head neck and shoulders massage. 40 minutes worth of heady bliss. After that it was on to the train for the overnight trip to Shanghai. Which was an hour late. Panic was a foot. But we ended up in Shanghai in one piece.

Shanghai is like the sanitised, westernised, Disney version of China. It's bloody beautiful, yet still confusing. We spent all day and night walking around the bund being amazed by the views and odd things. The Bund Tourist Tunnel lived up to its reputation of unsurpassed mediocrity. For dinner we went to a restaurant over looking the bund and the river. The setting was glorious and the food (4 courses) was pretty amazing. I still can't get my head around how cheap things are here.

Today we're off to do a tad more sightseeing and then on the Train to Macao for the Royale Suite at the Venetian. 5 star luxuary, can't wait!!!!

Friday 22 April 2011

Damn trains: The great dumpling masacre of 2011

Damn trains. When we arrived at the waiting room at Beijing West Station I thought I was going to loose my shit. Everytime I think I've never seen so many people crammed into such a small space, China outdoes itself. It was hella intense. But our trip from Beijing to Xi'an was seamless. The deluxe sleeper car was spacious, comfortable and private. It was a bit difficult to sleep due to the train stopping at stations along the way but overall it was a good trip. Unfortunately when we arrived at Xi'an and attempted to buy our next lot of tickets to Shanghai they were completely sold out except for standing room only. 12 hours overnight standing? I think not. So we had to get a later train meaning we're not leaving Xi'am until 10.30 at night and not arriving in Shanghai till after midday. This paniced us so we tried to get tickets for the Shanghai to Hong Kong leg. The problem with China trains is you can only book the tickets from the station you are departing from. Thankfully our hostel was able to sort some tickets out for us. But they are from Shanghai to Shenzhou(?) and then we need to make our way down to Macau afterward, which Jazz assures me is not an issue. (Looks dubious) Neither of the tickets are deluxe sleepers so we will be in with other people and have to use the (gasp!) public toilets. As long as no one starts sniffing my hair while I'm sleeping we should be fine. The big down side is it now means we'll only be in Shanghai for 24 hours. We'll just have to cram it all in.

We've landed in Xi'an a week before the Xi'an International Agricultural Exposition 2011. This means there are people everywhere desperately trying to beautify the city with flowers and plants. Some of it works, some is just odd. We went out to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, a Bhuddist temple and saw wome moks praying and burning incense and doing monk type things. It was pretty cool. We then hung around awaiting Asias biggest fountain light and music show. Just in front of the Pagoda is a massive fountain - easily as big as a city block of houses. So we sat by it and waited. And waited. And waited. And then heard fireworks from behind us. Apparently the smaller less attractive fountain around the corner is where all the action was at. But hey, at least they had illuminous cherry blossom trees.

Yesterday we visited the Terracotta Warriors. It was amazing. Imagine you're out one day digging in your field and uncover an entire army of  dudes underground. I've told Jazz that this is the kind of monument I want created in my honour when I pass. At what point do you kind of go - you know what, after I die, I'm pretty sure I'll need an inaminate army to protect my tomb - make it so *clap clap*. I don't know how one gets to that point, but I'm hoping that I can at some time in my life.

Last night we took our first paid 'tour'. It was a dinner and dance - true dinks. It was pretty pricey for Chinese standards and we became dubious when we were the only ones going. We could smell a rip off a foot. But how wrong we were!! The 'tour guide' simply dropped us off at the theatre. Upstairs was the dining and downstairs was the show - You didn't think we were the ones that were going to do the dancing did you? Dinner was dumpling heaven. Such a pleasant unexpected surprise. Every single dumpling you could ever imagine was presented to us - duck, sharkfin, fish, mushroom, chicken, spinach, pumpkin, pork, beef, seafood, oyster...... the list goes on and on. And they were shaped like what was in them! Little fishes and ducks and such. And they just kept bringing them and bringing them. If we were dogs we would have eaten ourselves to death. But we only managed a mild coma. Afterward we watched traditional dances, singing and performances from the Tang Dynasty. Think of that dance she does in House of Flying Daggers with the drums and scarves. Yeah that cool. It was a really excellent night. Of course we were home in bed by 9.30 because you know - travelling Jazz and Mandy are pox.

Today we are going to ride bikes around the city walls and tonight we get on the train to Shanghai.

Tuesday 19 April 2011

The Wall of Greatness: Duck Duck Scorpian

Yesterday I did the running man on the Great Wall of China. Hell to the yes. We left the hotel at dick o'clock and went off in search of the wall. We were taking public transport and thought we had it all figured. We were looking for bus 919, which would have been easy, if there weren't 72 different bus 919s. We lined up in at least 5 of them before we found the correct one. Of course the Chinese were their usual helpful self continually directing us to the wrong line. If we were in Japan someone would have walked 3 blocks to deliver us to the correct bus stop - here, you're lucky to get snarled at.

Once we were on the right bus it was smooth sailing. As smooth as sailing on Chinese roads can be. The bus drivers here are the craziest mofos I have ever come accross. I will never complain about Adelaide drivers again!! There was at least one moment where we were holding on to one another for dear life and saying our goodbyes. But we got there safe and sound. First stop was the toilets. Big mistake. HUGE. The memories of that throng will never leave me.... women barging through - knocking little old ladies out of their way, people opening the toilet doors and screaming at others to hurry up, women getting in to the cubicle before the other person had left yet. I couldn't do it. It was chaotic. And those tiny women are freakin scary. Jazz on the other hand was having a dandy time. Thankfully we found less offensive toilets further up the hill.

The wall itself, as anyone could imagine, was just stunning. It's the first time that we've been in China that I have felt real reverence for a place. We were at the busiest point on the wall - Badaling - but we went in the opposite direction along the wall than the crowds. Not sure why they all go to that section but Jazz seems to think there is a sacred site around tower 6 or 7 that area is just wall to wall (pun intended) people. In the other direction it is much calmer and there are a lot less people. I was startled by the steepness in places. There were one set of steps that were verticle, it was more like climbing a ladder than stairs. But we made it a fair distance up without too much difficulty. We were surprised to find that there were a heap of Cherry Blossom trees blossoming around the wall. I'm not sure why they are so revered in Japan, and not even really mentioned in China. Along the way we were graced with the presence of a group of Irish school boys. It added a very humerous element to the adventure. Especially when they were attemping to barter with the hawkers. Ahhhh school boy shenanigans in an Irish accent. Gold.

After the climb we pretty much headed straight back to the hotel for a nanna nap. The wall was freezing, but we both got fairly sunburnt. After our nap I had a hankering for some Peking Duck. C'mon, you can't be in Beijing for a week and not eat Peking Duck. The guy at our hotel is a wealth of knowledge and sent us to a local restaurant. It was devine!! We ate a butt load of duck and the freshest, tastiest dumplings I have ever had the pleasure of eating. It was flavour heaven. We then headed down to the Night Markets.

WARNING: Not for the squeamish.
The night markets are a bustling strip of hawkers and bizzare food stalls. You could eat - snake, octopus, tarantula, cockroach, seahorse, starfish.... in fact if it's meat - it's there on a stick. They are all stuck on sticks and put up for display - the scorpians little legs are still running 10 to the dozen. Then they flash fry them - chuck them in some spices and you eat them. Yep. We ate scorpian.

Today we're having a rest day, because tonight we are taking our first overnight train. Tomorrow we will awaken in Xian!

Sunday 17 April 2011

Beijing Ding-a-ling: Forbidden Love

What a full on couple of days.

Yesterday we vistied Tienanmen Square and the Forbidden City. I have never seen so many people in the one place ever. And they were all in massive groups wearing the same coloured hats, following a guide with a flag. It was insane. The buildings themselves were grandiose. They certainly built the city to inspire awe and exhibit their power. It took us nearly the entire day just to get through it.

As a side note on China and its helpful people - We wanted to visit the 'hall of clocks and watches' - no idea why it just sounded the best of the myriad meseums scattered throughout the city. We found the entrence but could not find the ticket office to save ourselves. We asked several people who all gave us less than helful guidance. The woman at the ticket counter just screamed LEFT at us repeatedly. So we figured we'd go have a look at the massive building called 'information centre'. It was a beacon of hope shining to us from accross a massive courtyard, however upon closer inspection the information centre was a doorway with a massive shiny sign inside and and nothing else. It was hilariously ridiculous. We eventually got tickets and saw some clocks.

Today we headed out to the Summer Palace. Again - just a massive expanse of royal dick swinging. It was lovely to walk through and the view from the very top of the garden was breathtaking. The highlight, for me at least, was a random massive choir that seemed to spring up out of nowhere and sang so loudly and beautifully it was show stopping. Such a perfect backdrop to the palace.

We then visited the Temple of Heaven. Some weird shit went down there as far as we can gather. There were definately sacrafices but we're yet to discover of what variety. The Palace of Abstinance was disappointing to say the least. But then that was probably to be expected....

China itself is proving to be challenging. The food is great, the subway is exceptional - only 2 yuan (about 30 cents), to go anywhere on the subway and the sights are amazing. There's only two issues - the toilets and the staring. I thought we had issues with the Japan toilets - but they don't have anything on Chinese ones. They have squats which we became acustomed to in Japan, but you can't flush your toilet paper. So what does one do with ones toilet paper if not flush it? Well one leaves it in the waste paper basket next to the squat. Which means every time you squat down to take a pee your face is about 20 cms away from an overflowing basket full of soiled paper. I'm desperately trying to get used to it - Jazz just laughs at me. And then there's the staring. Jazz told me to expect the Chinese to stare at us. What he didn't tell me is that they would stop mouth agape staring at us for a full minute after we had walked past, or that they would run into walls on their bikes because they were too busy checking out the "wai gua ren" (forigners). We have had 3 families and 1 soldier stop and ask to take their pictures with us. Who would have thought that we would be as big a tourist attraction as some ancient ruins!!  Sometimes it's fine other times - and particularly for someone who is already self concious - it can be very awkward.

Anway enough rambling - we're off to get some Peking Duck and tomorrow - The Great Wall!!

Saturday 16 April 2011

Welcome to China - Land of Contradictions

The ferry saw us land at Qingdao Port on the North East Coast of China. It occured to us after the fact that entering a country through a shipping port is not the best way to get the first impression of a country. To say I was shit scared was an understatement. Jazzy of course was holding firm that it 'wasn't that bad' (he conceded later that yes, in fact, it was that bad). The minute we stepped out of the terminal taxi drivers were screaming at us to use their taxi, we declined with the intention of taking a train. The area was like nothing I have ever seen. To say it was dilapitated is being too generous. We dragged our way through the road/footpath/dirt along the train line looking for the station which was nowhere to be found. Finally we stumbled accross a ticketing desk but the clerk would not help us - literally, he just sat in his office ignoring our existence. So out to get a taxi we went. After numerous attempts we finally flagged one down. The question of our cases was too much for him though. It took us a full five minutes to get into the taxi and moving.

So taxi rides in China. O.M.G. I sat in the back with my eyes closed praying for a swift and painless death. There appear to be no road rules. The only road rule is to use your horn constantly and scare the hell out of your passengers, pedestrians and other motorists. I have seen no evidence to disprove this threory in the taxi rides we have taken since. He did however, get us to the hotel safe and unscathed. It was one of those rare moments where we wanted to get into the comfort of the hotel room and ignore that there is a big bad world outside the door. But we persisted and headed down to the train station to get our tickets to Beijing for the next morning. The city was depressing. It was dirty, manic, chaotic - the exact opposite of all that Japan had been.

The train trip to Beijing and the taxi ride to the hotel were just as intolerable. We could not find our hotel at all, and the taxi driver parked his car in the middle of the road twice and got out to ask directions whilst other motorists beeped their horns around him. We finally just said let us out here and figured we would make better on foot. We spent about 20 minutes going around in circles in the tiny, smelly and dilapitated Hutongs of Beijings West, until finally at the very end of a tiny dead end Hutong we found a door.... our door.... that led into an amazing oasis. It's called Kellys Courtyard and it is the most beautiful, unexpected little getaway we could wish for. The furnishings are classical and stylish, the room is unbelievably cosy, the rooftop garden and the court yard are delightful to relax in.

Finally our China trip had started. Since then things have been fabulous. We are loving this city and seeing heaps every day. Tomorrow we'll tell you about Tienanmen Square and the Forbidden City.

Heading Down Town to China Town: The Love Boat

Well the ferry trip was an unmitigated success. We had the Maple Suite. We had no idea that this consisted of a king size bed, in a bedroom, coupled with a full bathroom - including bath, entry way/bar plus a full lounge suite with TV and full length windows out to the ocean. Upon arrival we were greeted with tea, a fruit bowl (!) and assorted savouries and sweets. I should really put this ferry in prespective though - we only paid an extra $100 for the suite, the class below us was 4 berth and no bathroom. A no brainer really! And the lowest class we could find was a large room where about 40 people slept in sleeping bags on the floor. There was really not much to do other than sleep, eat, watch bad bad movies and read. It was just the relaxation that we needed.

Behind the Bamboo Curtain

Jazzy and I have made it safe and sound to Beijing.  Unforftunately we have no access to facebook or the blog.  We do however have access to our hotmail so you can email us mandy2011@hotmail.com and ashleymedew@hotmail.com if there's anything pressing.

My beautiful mum  has very kindly offered to keep updating the blog for us so please stay tuned.

Beijing in s sentence:  Today I saw a woman standing outside a massive Louis Vitton store tending to her pet duck.

Wednesday 13 April 2011

Sayonara Japan!

Yesterday started as any day on Monkey island must - onsen before breakfast, breakfast banquet of every imaginable brekfast delicacy you could imagine and a walk through the ancient streets and cherry blossoms. On to the ferry we went and back to Hiroshima for a spot of shopping. Jazzy the man child managed to score himself a grand pocket watch with a manga design on it from a place called `Alice` Alice is an arcade full of skill testers staffed by tiny japanese maids. Of course he was going to win!

We then took our last Shinkensen ride to Shimonoseki Port, using our Japan Rail past for the final time - It died a glorious honourable death - we would have been lost without it. The Shinkensen had a big sign up telling us how fast we were traveling. 285km/h was the highest we saw. At that speed you cannot focus on objects that are less than 5 metres away from the train, and things up to 20 metres away are passing too quickly to really notice. It was warp speed!! Truly felt like we were moving into the future.

We weren`t expecting to find much in Shimonoseki except our boat to China - that leaves Wednesdays and Fridays IN PRINCIPLE according to one brochure. To say we were on edge about catching it is a gross understatement. But we have our tickets and are traveling in one of only two suites on the ferry. Classy.

It appears this town is completely supported by fugu. There are Fugu welcome signs, fugu statues, fugu telephones, fugu man hole covers. Fugu everything!! So we couldn`t help but check out the aquarium and see some real life fugus. It turned in to a game of spot what we`ve eaten on this trip. Which we found amusing until you get to the gift shop and can buy cooking books, sushi etc. Nice.

For dinner we decided to brave a Japanese supermarket and take things back to the hotel. We love that despite being half way round the world we still have to platter up.

Of course we had to head up the observation tower here. It`s kind of become a habit. We`re so glad we did it this time. As our trip to Japan came to a close we were greeting with a stunning view of a bright red sun slowing setting over the ocean. The perfect ending to a perfect trip in a perfect country.



Arigato Japan xxxx

Tuesday 12 April 2011

Monkey Island, sans monkeys.

For the last two days we have been hauled up in a royokan - traditional Japanese Inn - on Miyajima Island, just off the coast of Hiroshima. We are living in luxuary. We have usage of a private onsen as well as the normal onsens so were having two long hot baths a day, youre encouraged to walk around in your bath robe and slippers, they lay your bed our for you every night and my name is on the board out the front welcoming me to the island. We have found the best Japanese restaurant in the world and have eaten there nearly every meal, we have gone CRAZY at the souvenoir shops and there are deer everywhere.

So let me explain yesterdays heavenly experience.

We awoke later than usual and had an onsen. Steaming hot bath with luxourious products to indulge in. We then headed down to breakfast. It was a banquet set out in front of us and served by a gorgeous girl. The bacon and eggs were cooked on an open flame in front of us while we indulged in the fresh fruits yogurts and cheese buns. There was also salad but I still cant get used to eating that for breakfast.

We then headed up the mountain. There is a track that heads through amazing country side and past tiny little tea shops set next to ponds full of koi (hell yes we indulged). About half way up the track you come accross the ropeway. It takes you 400 metres up to a little lookout. This is where the monkeys are meant to be, but alas they were no where to be seen - which we were actually glad about considering the warning signs practically said do not look, touch or engage in any way with the monkeys or they may rip your face off.  From there it was a kilometer walk to the sumit of Mount Misen, passing by shrines and temples alomng the way. There is a fire there that is said to have been burning for 1200 years and was used to light the peace flame in Hiroshimas peace park. The view from the top was of course stunning.

Once we had made it back to the foreshore it was time to hire our bikes. Um yeah bikes. I was dubious to say the least, Jazz was like a child that just been given his first bike at Christmas. There were a lot of WHEEEEEEEEs and bell ringing. After a little while I got the hang of it and it ended up being an amazing way to explore the island. Riding past the beaches while the cherry blossoms fell like snow around us is possibly the highlight of our entire Japan trip.

At hide tide we explored the shrine that the island is famous for. There is a giant tori gate in the ocean that you can walk out to at low tide, and appears to be floating at high tide. Magical. And then we hit the shops. Man these Japanese have some crazy mixed up stuff for sale. The highlight of Jazzys day, turning it from epic to mythical status, was buying an unbrella that looks like a samurai sword. You can even wear it on your back. The elderly shop keep thought this was the funniest thing to happen in a millenia. And the man child was truely sated.

Dinner was divine. And then we headed back to the hotel for another onsen follwed by a massage before falling in to bed to sleep a blissful slumber.

Today we head back to Hiroshima and then to Shimoneski where we catch the ferry to China tomorrow.

Monday 11 April 2011

Monkey Island...

.....is so fricken awesome we may not leave. Your regularly scheduled updates will resume soon.

Sunday 10 April 2011

DOH! A deer: Osakas Red Light District: Surviving FUGU!

Yesterday morning we made a detour to go and check out the largest wooden building and largest bronze buddah in the world in Nara Park. To say that they were large is an understatement. Colossal perhaps, mega super HUGE... well you get the idea. The surprise of the day is that Nara Park is inhabited by hundreds of wild but human friendly deer. Hundreds of bambis just roaming around getting all up in your grill. Very cute.

We then moved on to Osaka. Bad idea. From the moment we set foot in this town I`ve had a bad feeling. The train station is like nothing I have ever seen, it stretches for blocks and blocks and connects with department stores underground so before you know it you`re 5 blocks from the station and have no idea how to get back. I guess they don`t call it Osaka Station City for nothing. So lost we did get, it took a man kind enough to wakl us 3 blocks before we could get our bearings. They are such super nice people!

And then the hotel. I swears we are smack bang in the red light district. There are love hotels and `massage palours` as far as the eye can see. Jazzy even got given some tissues with some scantily clad ladies and an address on the outside. Classy. The hotel itself is fine, but there is a truck that keeps going past with a loud speaker advertising adult entertainment, and I`m pretty sure I saw a pimp fight out the window this morning.

So last night we headed to Namba, the other city central. It was..... well it just was. It had all the lights going full bore, giant crabs on building signs pinching their pinchers, some kind of American statue/robot doing American things..... but most impressively..... It had Fugu. A giant iluminated pufferfish guided us to it`s dangerous goodness. And good it was, we had Fugu Sushi. Nomnomnomnomnom.

Today we are getting the hell out of here and heading to MONKEY ISLAND!!! (Miyajima) for a little rest.

Saturday 9 April 2011

Q. What`s big and red and holy all over?

Tori Gates. Millions and millions of Tori Gates. Yesterday we climbed to the top of the Inari Shrine. You may have heard of it - it`s a mountain path literally covered in giant orange Tori Gates. It is impressive yet somewhat bemusing. We also had a looksey around the Golden Pavillion. Surprisingly not as elegant as the Silver Pavillion. You still get that rush of awe and astonishment when you see it but overall it was a little (just a little) disappointing.

The highlight of the day was being able to enter the Imperial Palace. It is rarely open to the public, so it was just great timing that we were able to get in and see it. A very imposing, regal kind of place. Again - awe inspiring. You could just imagine all the Princes and Princesses getting around the gardens in full garb and the Emporer sitting up on the impressive throne ignoring the commoners.

But the biggest disapointment of the day was the Manga Museum. It really should be called the Manga Library. If you had a year and could read Japanese, you could spend every day in there reading manga and never get tired of it. But we only had a couple of hours and can only read English, so apart from some pretty basic `this is what manga is` exhibits, there really wasn`t much to see.

Last night we went up the Kyoto Tower at dusk and watched all the lights come on across the city, very pretty. We then had dinner in the tower at what I would consider a fine dining place, but am unsure of how fine it is by Japanese standards. The view was amazing, the food sensational, but we steered clear of the horse shahimi this time. The featured wine this week was Chandon from the Yarra Valley!! But I opted for a Nagano Chardy... not so great actually. But the cheese plate was surprisingly good.

On a side note, something that has amused me about Japan since we got here is their obsession with cheesecake and parfait. I guess it`s the last thing I expected to be able to indulge in while here. But lordy lordy have we been indulging. And their waffles! To die for. How can a country fail at bread but get waffles so right?

Today we head to Osaka via Nara. HUZZAH!!

Friday 8 April 2011

Philosopholising on the Philosophers Path: Shrines and Temples

Yesterday is possibly one of the most magical days I have ever had, filled with beauty wonderment and superb company.

We started our walk from Ginkaku-ji - The Silver Pavillion - and made our way along the Philosophers Path - A canal draped with Sakura (Cherry Blossoms) The pavillions gardens were the highlight. They had phenomenal rock gardens, like nothing I had ever imagined - moss covered the ground and Sakura and Camillias dropped their flowers over the moss. The funny thing was there were no leaves or twigs on the moss at all. It was just perfect and we couldn`t figure out why - until we stumble accross several gardeners sweeping the moss with traditional straw brooms. They must do that every day, it was immaculate. Walking down the street from there we got stuck it souvenior hell - and bought up big!! Couldn`t help ourselves, everything is so cute!

We then visited a couple of temples and shrines, all of which with the same immaculate grooming. We listened to some monks saying prayer and had tea over looking beautiful pond and garden. For a couple of aethiests we`re always mindful of the hypocracy of visiting such religious sights - but you would have to be a complete nunce not to be able to appreciate the beauty of these structures.

The Philosophers Path was just stunning, just when you thought you have seen the most beautiful sight your eyes will ever behold, you turn a corner and there is something ever more incredible. Words cannot describe the beauty.

AND THEN.... we just happened upon a little cafe, which turned out to be a tepenyaki bar. They made us Okonomiyaki (pancake type thing) in front of us. And OMG it was good, and hypnotic. The heat, the good food and the lovely setting made us near zombies - we had to have a little sit down in the park afterward.

At night we went to Nijo Castle which has been lit up for Cherry Blossom season. Again it is impossible to put into words what a path of blossoming trees lit from below looks like on a mild Spring night in Kyoto. And the photos won`t do it justice. Y`all just have to come and see it for yourself now ya hear!

For dinner we ate `Fresh Horse Shashimi` and dumplings of course. Although we are assuming that it was not in fact horse we can`t be entirely sure. It was definately raw red meat, and some of the slices were just pure fat, which we couldn`t bring ourselves to eat. 

For our last day in Kyoto we`ll be checking out Kinkakuji - The Golden Pavillion, the manga museum and perhaps some other odds and sods.

Missing you all xxxx

Thursday 7 April 2011

Ninja, Geisha and traditional Japanese living

Ohaio!

Todays blog is being brought to you from the Chita Geust house in Kyoto. Little did we know that said guest house is a traditional Japanese guest house. Score! The room is nothing but tatami mats and we`re sleeping on futons. Our view is of a massive shrine accross the road, and there are no showers - just a communal bathroom where you sit down and wash from a basin. But don`t dispair - there is a vending machine in the front room! Oh and we have to leave our shoes at the door. We`re loving it!

Yesterday we went to Iga-Ueno. It`s a little off the main trail but it also the birth place of the Japanese ninja (aledgedly) and my word don`t they milk it!  There were ninja everywhere, on the trains, at the station, on the light poles, in windows, holding up menus EVERYWHERE. And for people trained in stealth this was somewhat surprising. We went to the ninja museum and it was possibly the best museum we`ve seen yet - probably because everything was in English and it was just so damn cool. There was a full recreation of a ninja house and a girl in full garb showed us how ninja had the house set up to be sneaky and undetectable. Unfortunately the demonstration was not on yesterday, apparently ninja need to rest too.

From there we went on the scariest, dodgiest train ride we`ve been on (we expect worse in China) but eventually made it to Kyoto in one piece.

Our first stop was Gion Corner. Damn tourists! But it really was delightful, the streets are all done up to look old worldy, there are geisha just roaming the streets - we harranged a couple in to taking their photos - and the Cherry Blossoms are in full bloom. We voluntered to be part of a tea ceremony demonstration as part of the Gion Corner show. Being served tea by geisha..... awesome!!!!

We`ve finally found the western tourists. They`re all in Kyoto! It feel wierd to hear English just walking down the street now, and our hostess speaks fluently so things aren`t as much of a struggle as they have been.

Today we`re off to walk the Philosophers Path and see Shrines shrines shrines!!

Tuesday 5 April 2011

Nagoya, we hardly knew you: The Onsen Experience

As quick as we arrived we are leaving Nagoya. Such a very pretty city - A great big castle with gold (actual gold) fish on top that you can ride, a moat!!, shrines and temples deluxe and a fabulous Noh Theatre. Our over ambitious walk through the shoguns trail turned out just to be that - we made it 2 kilometres in to the country side and then turned back. The hills were too high and the air too thin. But what we did see was stunning.

But all of this pales in comparison to our first Onsen experience.

Being naked in a massive room surrounded by myriad naked Japanese women is not the place to realise that your Japanese really is underpar and that you cannot understand a word anyone is saying. Talk about embarassing - I just got into the spas and sat there looking stupid until they left me alone. In retrospect I think they were telling me to wash down before I got in, but Oh well. The onsen was massive - 3 spas inside - 1 at 46 degrees, 1 at 17 and one that was a maze of shooting jets. Outside there was one you lay down in that had shooting jets, one that felt like softdrink bubbles, ones were you laid in inch deep water on rocks, a couple of tubs and a stone chair with water cascading down it. We were in spary heaven. And after that we went and had a massage. And all for the bargain price of 7000yen (about $80AUD)

We love this country.

Tomorrow we head for Kyoto via Iga Ueno and the NINJA MUSEUM! (If we can find it)

Monday 4 April 2011

Tokyo photos


UENO PARK on Thursday afternoon

 UENO PARK on Sunday afternoon


ELECTRIC TOWN being not very electric.

FUJI-SAN


Fun at SANRIO PUROLAND (Hello Kitty World!!)




TOKYO nightscape

SHINJUKU

HARAJUKU on a Sunday morning

Time to get the bullet train to Nagoya


Surviving Lamageddon - Sayonara Tokyo!

Today we get on the bullet train and head for Nagoya, leaving Tokyo behind us forever. And without even a glimmer of disruption to our essential services.

Yesterday we went to Harajuku. On a Sunday morning it is the mecca for the coolest kids in Tokyo to cosplay, hang our and generally be all round awesome. Unfortunately there was some massive event in a park near the station, there were 1000s of people gathering around and lining up to get in, but we couldn`t figure out what it was. We`re thinking perhaps a benefit concert.... So all the cool kids were no where to be seen. What we did find however, is the coolest shops in the history of shops that are cool. Basically think of all your costumery, gothic, lolita, dragqueen, cosplay essentials all in the one street only 200 metres long. It was mind blowing. Jazzy had to drag me out by the ear. Of course they are all designed for minute hot asian women so we were unable to buy, (no amount of tailoring was going to turn that mirror ball corset top into something either of us could wear) but we have come away with some awesome ideas.

We then went back to Ueno. In just 4 days the Cherry Blossoms have completly come out. We had our first Sakura picnic! By the time we get to Kyoto it should be raining Cherry Blossoms and by the time we leave Japan they will all be gone :( Their magic is in their fleeting beauty.

And then back to Akihabara (electirc town). I don`t think it`s a coincidence that all the electronics stores are coupled with the maid cafes and ginormous sex stores. And manga manga everywhere. And not of the innocent cutesie kind either. One place we went to had an ENTIRE floor dedicated to manga porn. It`s just normal reading here. People read it on the train like you would a New Idea magazine. Full on.

So off we go to Nagoya!!

Saturday 2 April 2011

Mount Fuji, SanrioPuroland and Shinjuki

We are so unbeliveably proud of ourselves. In the last two days we have managed to navigate ourselves out of Tokyo city and into the country/burbs. All in a country where we can`t read the signs and have the utmost difficulty (yet fun) communicating with people. We haven`t been lost once, or even made a wrong turn. It`s been great!

I can`t say anything about Mount Fuji. Words and even photos will never do it justice. Spellbinding.

SanrioPuroland (Hello Kitty World) gave us diabetis of the eyes it was that jam packed full of sugary viewing. It was magical in every sense of the word. It was also like a bad acid trip that lasted 5 hours. All in all I have mixed feelings about the day.....

Shinjuki is epic in every sense. Epic amount of people on the streets. Epic department stores a city block wide and 15 stories high. Epic train station that takes the population of Melbourne through it every day and has 127 exits. Epic crosswalks - 300 people crossing every change of lights. Just EPIC. We had sushi train. Mmmmmm Sushi train.

And then to top the day off we headed to Roppongi Hills to view the city lights at night. The lights of the city skyescrapers stretch as far as the eye can see. There`s no end to it.

Please forgive me, we`ve been sightseeing for 15 hours today so my vocab leaves a bit to be desired, but hopefully you get the idea. And if not. WE`RE HAVING AN AWESOME TIME!!!!!!!

Friday 1 April 2011

Ueno Ueno Ueno

Up a bit later this morning - It`s only 6am.

Yesterday I was able to tick two things off my `things to do before I die list` before 10am.

We travelled on the Tokyo subway at peak hour. And we saw Tokyo Cherry Blossoms.

The subway was packed. I mean the amount of people is just phenomenal. But it is so orderly and people are so polite that there is no rush or pushing or discomfort at all. Just precision people moving.

The blossoms aren`t completely out yet and a few of the meseums are still closed due to recent events but they will all be open before we leave, so we`ll be heading back again in a few days. We spent the day walking around and seeing the mesuem and temples that are open. There are heaps of street stalls out due (we think) to Cherry Blossom season, so we tried some local fare, nom nom nom. And we went on a giant swan paddle boat. random.

We walked from Ueno station to Akihbara Station through a maze of tiny street stalls. The shopping was cheap and plentiful. The shoes! OMG the shoes. Totty you would be in your element!

And then we went to 3 (count them 3!!!) maid cafes. At the first one, we had an icecream sundae that was made to look like an elephant. At the 2nd one there was so much of a language barrier we had to leave without getting anything. The poor girls thought they had done something to offend us and we couldn`t even convey that they had done nothing wrong. AND THEN. We went to what I could only describe as heaven in a cafe. The maids spoke enough English, played games with us every time they served us something, we got pictures with them and they gave us Chopsticks with the Australian flag on it. So cute I thought my head might explode. Oh and they gave us a Licence of Your Majesty!! I:m a level one My Maid!!!

Today we are off the Fuji-san if the trains are running.

Thursday 31 March 2011

Tokyo Day 1

Ohai-o Gazaimas!!

Good morning from Tokyo - and when I say good morning it`s 5am. Told you I was overstimulated!!

The story so far -

The flight from KL was practically empty. As in you could sleep accross the 5 seats in the middle. Unfortunately we did very little sleeping. There were around 6 other international flights that landed at the same time we did. We were the ONLY people in line with international passports at customs. But I know there were others from Adelaide on our flight because some tosser was wearing `heaps good` t-shirt. It was a worrying sign to say the least.

The train in from the airport was also empty. It was an hour and a half of rolling countrysides, then suburbs, then the city. By the time we were a few stations from Tokyo the train was choc-a-block with locals. Surrounded by tiny Japanese women scantilly clad despite the cold was a very warm welcome to Tokyo indeed.

The station at Tokyo is MASSIVE, and confusing, and almost overwhelming. I loved it!! We put our bags in lockers and made a toilet stop before heading out into the city. This is about the time that I nearly lost my shit. I`m pretty sure you have to have an areospace engineering degree to work one of those bastards. They sing, they make flushing noises - which makes you thing you`re going to get water in your ass AND THEN just when you think it`s safe it shoots water up your ass anyway!!! And there`s no way to flush it. You just have to leave the cubicle. It took me 5 minutes of panic and the embarasment of having to give up and walk out and leave my dirty business there for all to see, before I figured that out. I`m sure by the end of the week I`ll have them figured out.

Anyway we did some sightseeing, of which we`ll post photos when we can. The East Imperial Gardens, Gojira statue, Ginza, all very pretty all very lovely.

The people here are overwhelming friendly, helpful and welcoming. Every single time we pulled out the map, someone was there to help with directions. One elderly suited man was confused about the `godzilla` statue and when we said Gojira he started acting like Godzilla and laughing. It was very cute. Every time we try to take a photo of one of us posing, someone is there offering to take a photo of both of us. It is truly an amazing city.

Our hotel is wonderful. It`s meant to be budget but we have a king size bed with form fitting pillows and it`s just lovely. There`s a `family mart` in the foyer for all our needs and a free breakfast. Score.

For dinner we went to a little place nearby making sure the menu had big pretty pictures of every thing. It is just like any Japanese restaurent you`ve been to, shoes off, sit on the floor, watch them cook in front of you (not Tepenyaki just a view of the kitchen) We ordered a pot of green tea. We got alcoholic green tea that tasted like regret. We ordered the banquet of BBQed chicken, half of which was great - the other half was liver and gizzards. We ate it all. But not without gagging and washing it down with the regretful tea to make it better!  But the Goyza (dumplings) were to die for.

Feeling a little defeated from the experience we had not had our fill and were too scared to order any more lest it get worse. So we headed to another little cafe not too far away and just pointed at the Goyza. All in all it was a 16 dumpling day.

Today we`re off to Ueno park to see the Cherry Blossoms and the museums and zoo. Then a stop at Ahkibahara (spelling) to see the maid cafes.

Back to being overstimulated!!!

Wednesday 30 March 2011

Best Lay (over) Evers

Thinking of going on a holiday anywhere?

Get Carlene Gillie of Hyde Park Flight Centre to sort it out for you. This woman works magic.

Our flight was changed so that we ended up having an 8 hour lay over in Kuala Lumpur. No skin off our nose, we just figured we`d do some shopping. But our fab travel agent was having none of that.

She arranged a voucher for us to have a hotel room to relax in. We immediately started thinking of formula 1 type deal, you know the ones that come with a free herpes shot on departure. But boy were we wrong.

A concierce met us off the plane, put us on one of those buggie things you`ve seen douche bags riding around the airport in, and escorted us to the 5 star resort that would be our digs for the next 8 hours. Wall to wall marble, a king size bed that if you found the matress not quite right you could arrange for a different one to be delivered. Personal trainer, spa, lagooesque swimming pool..... lordy lordy it was lovely.

And then for the icing on the cake - A free buffet dinner. And we`re not talking Watermark Hotel here.... the food was devine and the desert tables (yes TABLES) were covered in delectable delicacies and topped off with a five teir chocolate fountain. We gave Australian tourist a bad name that day my friends. nom nom nom nom nom.

So then it was back On to the douche bag buggy - but sharing with two hot japaneese flight attendants. It does not get any better than that.

Stay tuned for tomorrows installment of how we were the only international passport holders coming into Tokyo yesterday off 6 international flights. And how not to Order awesome chicken that ends up being gizzards. 

LOVES TO YOU ALL XXXXX

Saturday 26 March 2011

Introducing....

FUNI AND GOJIRA
The official mascots of the Vyner-Medew Odyssey


Please familiarise yourself with them you will be seeing a lot of them in the coming weeks.




Sunday 20 March 2011

Helpful vs Painful Advice

Helpful -
Check your travel insurance to make sure you're covered in do not travel circumstances.

Painful -
DO NOT GO!

Helpful -
Check out this link from <insert government department/regulatory body>. It has some useful information of what precautions to take.

Painful -
Check out this email virus that says there's already radiation in America and that the whole of Japan is fucked and going to die.

Helpful -
Just make sure you've done your research

Painful -
YOU WILL DIE IF YOU GO!

Helpful -
Here's how my friends currently in Tokyo are experiencing things.....

Painful -
Please don't go, I don't want you to die.

Saturday 19 March 2011

Self imposed media ban: the road to superpowers

Watching the news is giving us an ulcer. 
Talking to friends and family about our decision makes me want to cry. 
We are pulling our hair out about what to do. 

So for the weekend we are pushing all of it from our minds and not talking about it or making any kind of assessment. 

Monday we will look at all the information from a fresh mind and make a decision. 

Whatever that decision may be we know it will be the right one. 

Unless we get caught in a nuclear apocalypse. But the upshot of that is we may get superpowers. I'm hoping for some kind of cool weaponry that shoots out of my hands coupled with invisibility. Jazzy is hoping for flight and invincibility. 

Mind you the invincibility would work in our favour now rather than later.....

Wednesday 16 March 2011

Earthquakes, tsunamis, nuclear reactors....

forgive my disrespect when I say that Japan currently looks like a beloved game of sim city. I'm just waiting for that pixilated image of Godzilla to go traipsing across the screen leaving a trail of fires and explosions in his wake.

It is just that surreal.

The level of devastation that has wracked the northeastern coast of Honshu is phenomenal. The loss of life is beyond comprehension for a little Aussie girl who has never encountered such a disaster on Australian shores.

So why on earth are we still considering going?
The reasons are many and varied.

All reports indicate that the areas we intend to visit are safe and have had little to no disruption at all. As we are visiting areas south of Tokyo we'll be at least 700km away from the tsunami and 600km away from the reactors - That's around the same distance as Wodonga to Sydney. It would be like not going to Port McQuarie in the weeks after the Brisbane floods.

EXCEPT for the first 5 days. In those first 5 days we're intending to stay in Tokyo. Right now, with 12 sleeps to go, everyone we speak to on the ground in central Tokyo is alive, well and functioning with little disruption. The rolling blackouts are not affecting areas that we will be visiting. The decrease in train frequency doesn't mean we'll be stranded, in fact all reports indicate it's still much more efficient than any Australian transport system working at maximum capacity. (again in the areas we are visiting - obviously there are some areas that are completely off line)

So if in the next week things get worse, the power plant implodes sending a plume of radioactive dust across Tokyo for example, we will simply change our flight to come into Osaka. It will be a great opportunity to add back in all those extras on our itinerary that we had to delete due to time constraints. And it means that we will have to go back to Japan again. A horrible shame of course!

So in our minds we have it all sorted. But the constant barrage of news, opinion pieces, uninformed gossip, and just 'unknown facts' is really taking it's toll.

I hope we're doing the right thing. It feels like we're doing the right thing. But we just won't know until we get there.

I promise posts from here on will not be so depressing and sombre.